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Pre-Owned Jean-Richard Haute Horlogerie Bressel 1665 Tourbillon 18K White Gold — Box & Papers (Ref. 97112-53-21A-AAED)
Daniel JeanRichard did not invent Swiss watchmaking. He organised it — turning a scattering of Neuchâtel Jura farmers into a subcontracting system that produced pocket watches for a continent, and gave the mountain valleys their industry.
Available now at Black Tag Watches (Aventura, Florida), this 2014 example — reference 97112-53-21A-AAED — is cased in 18K white gold, powered by the manual flying-tourbillon calibre JR99RJ with a 70-hour power reserve, and offered complete with its original Jean-Richard presentation box and warranty card dated 2014.
What Is the Jean-Richard Bressel 1665 Tourbillon?
The Name Is a Place, Not a Designation
The pre-owned Jean-Richard Haute Horlogerie Bressel 1665 Tourbillon is the white-gold flying-tourbillon execution of the maison’s most historically-anchored dress reference. The model name is a specific citation: “Bressel” is not a designation but a place — Les Bressels, the small hamlet between La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle where Daniel JeanRichard is traditionally believed to have been born in 1665. The “1665” that appears on the dial is that birth year. For collectors of pre-owned haute horlogerie tourbillons, the reference is a watch that wears its historical argument openly rather than as a marketing afterthought.
Daniel JeanRichard and the Origins of the Swiss Industry
Daniel JeanRichard (c. 1665–1741) is remembered as the man who transformed the Neuchâtel Jura from a scattering of subsistence farms into a watchmaking region. By introducing the système d’établissage — a division-of-labour arrangement in which each farmer specialised in a single watch component during the long mountain winters — he made industrial-scale Swiss watchmaking possible. By the time of his death in 1741, several hundred watchmakers were operating in the mountain valleys around Le Locle and La Chaux-de-Fonds. The origin story has folkloric edges; the substance of the historical contribution is well-documented and consequential. The modern Jean-Richard maison, revived under Sowind Group ownership in 1988, is a name revival built around that heritage rather than a continuous production line — a fact worth stating plainly.
Dial & Case Design: Thin White Gold, Architectural Grey Dial
An 8mm White-Gold Tourbillon Case
The 42mm case is rendered in 18K white gold and stands remarkably thin at 8mm — a specification made possible by the flying-tourbillon architecture, which requires no upper bridge above the cage, and by the calibre JR99RJ’s optimisation for a shaped mainplate. The case flanks are polished; the lugs are integrated into the case body in the maison’s Haute Horlogerie geometry. At 8mm thick for a tourbillon, the Bressel 1665 is genuinely slim — a proportion that most contemporary tourbillons, burdened by upper-bridge construction and thicker movements, cannot approach.
The Grey Dial and Its Layout
The grey dial carries a fine grid-embossed texture across a central field, with large applied Arabic 3, 6, and 9 numerals in gold, applied square hour markers in matching gold, and Dauphine-style hour and minute hands set on a raised chapter ring. “1665” appears in a small aperture below the 12 o’clock position — a subtle typographic anchor for the reference name. The power reserve indicator sits at 12 o’clock as an arc reading from 0 to 70, and the flying tourbillon cage rotates through its one-minute cycle at 6 o’clock, its bridge geometry visible above the mainplate. The dial reads as architectural rather than decorative — a Haute Horlogerie composition that lets the tourbillon and the power reserve do the visual work without cluttering the field.
Movement: Manufacture Jean-Richard Calibre JR99RJ
A 70-Hour Manual Tourbillon
Inside the Bressel 1665 is the manufacture Jean-Richard calibre JR99RJ — a hand-wound flying tourbillon movement of 20 jewels with a 70-hour power reserve, a specification that separates it from most contemporary manual tourbillons. Where the Breguet Classique tourbillons and many of the great Vallée de Joux manual tourbillons of the 2000s run at approximately 50 hours, the JR99RJ carries close to a full three days between windings. That reserve is achieved through a mainspring optimised specifically for the calibre’s shaped architecture, and it materially affects long-term ownership: a tourbillon that must be wound only every third day is one that stays running between wears rather than restarting from cold each time.
Finishing and Flying-Tourbillon Construction
The visible bridges are finished with Côtes de Genève and the mainplate with perlage. The flying tourbillon itself — construction that suspends the cage from a single lower bearing rather than bridging it from above — allows the top-side visibility that makes the dial composition legible as an object. As a horological argument for the Haute Horlogerie line, the JR99RJ is the kind of manufacture calibre a maison invests in when it wants its complications range to stand independently of its parent house. The calibre is of readable architecture that any qualified independent watchmaker with tourbillon experience can service.
Movement Specifications
Specification
Detail
Calibre
Jean-Richard JR99RJ, manual
Complication
1-minute flying tourbillon
Jewels
20
Power reserve
70 hours
Finishing
Côtes de Genève, perlage
Caseback
Sapphire display
Condition, Provenance & Documentation
Complete Original 2014 Delivery
Provenance is complete. The watch is offered with its original Jean-Richard presentation box and warranty card dated 2014. For a discontinued flying-tourbillon reference from a maison whose production wound down in the late 2010s, complete original documentation is the meaningful long-term signal on both authentication and future service — and the original white-gold folding buckle, the meaningful provenance point at the strap level, is present and correct.
Condition and Accessories
Detail
Information
Condition
Mint
Box
Original Jean-Richard presentation box
Papers
Warranty card, dated 2014
Strap
Brown alligator, mint
Buckle
Original Jean-Richard 18K white gold folding
Full Specifications — Jean-Richard Bressel 1665 Tourbillon 97112-53-21A-AAED
Specification
Detail
Brand
Jean-Richard (revived 1988; wound down late 2010s)
Collection
Haute Horlogerie Bressel 1665 Tourbillon
Reference
97112-53-21A-AAED
Year
2014
Case
18K white gold, 42mm
Thickness
8mm
Dial
Grey, grid-embossed central texture
Markers
Applied gold Arabic 3/6/9, square markers
Detail
“1665” aperture below 12
Power reserve
Arc at 12, 0–70
Tourbillon
Flying, at 6 o’clock
Hands
Gold Dauphine
Movement
JR99RJ, hand-wound flying tourbillon
Jewels
20
Power reserve
70 hours
Caseback
Sapphire display
Strap
Brown alligator, mint
Buckle
Original Jean-Richard 18K white gold folding
Condition
Mint
Box & Papers
Full set, dated 2014
Why Buy a Pre-Owned Jean-Richard Bressel 1665 Tourbillon?
A Genuine Orphan of a Specific Corporate Era
The Bressel 1665 Tourbillon occupies a specific and increasingly rare corner of the contemporary tourbillon secondary market. Jean-Richard was never a volume producer, the Haute Horlogerie line was a small subset of the maison’s output, and full-set tourbillon references from within the production window are correspondingly hard to source. That is compounded by the maison’s current status: Kering sold Sowind Group — the corporate parent that owned Jean-Richard, Girard-Perregaux, and Ulysse Nardin — back to management in 2022, and Jean-Richard’s active production wound down before that transaction closed. The reference is a genuine orphan of a specific corporate era. That context is neither disqualifying nor incidental for a buyer approaching the reference on the secondary market — it is why the reference trades where it does, and why full original documentation matters more than usual.
A Thin Flying Tourbillon with a Long Reserve and a Real Story
Against contemporary white-gold tourbillon retail — from the volume Genevan houses and from the smaller independents — this Jean-Richard offers a genuinely thin flying-tourbillon dress watch, with an unusually long manual power reserve, complete original delivery, and a specific historical citation that anchors the reference in one of the more consequential figures of early Swiss watchmaking. It is exactly the kind of pre-owned Haute Horlogerie tourbillon that rewards horological literacy more than badge recognition — a serious complication from a maison no longer producing, at a level the wider market has not fully priced.
Available at Black Tag Watches — Aventura, Florida
Black Tag Watches is a pre-owned luxury watch dealer based in Aventura, FL, specialising in rare, certified, and fully documented timepieces from independent and established Swiss manufactures.
View the Jean-Richard Haute Horlogerie Bressel 1665 Tourbillon — Full Details & Pricing
A white-gold flying tourbillon named for the hamlet where Daniel JeanRichard was born — from a modern maison that is no longer producing, and a horological figure whose actual contribution to Swiss watchmaking outlives the folklore around him.
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